Day 63: Connections

Coles Island to Dieppe, August 25, via 112 and 106

We woke to a morning of magnificent mist on the Caanan river at our quiet campground. The light spilled through slowly, glowing brighter.  We peeled a few of the farm fresh eggs I had boiled last night for breakfast.

The air was cold. It was 11 degrees C. I had on a wool hat, and jacket, and Irena and I both were shaking out our fingers from the cold. The road, however, was empty. So much so that we often rode side by side. I think we saw all of two cars in the first hour. I did notice the raptor when Irena rolled by it, spread wings and talons as yellow as the center line. Yet I also noticed it was moving, twitching, really. Maybe it was the YA book series I’d read this summer, Ms. Peregrine’s Home for Peculiar Children about magical bird women leaders, that compelled me to stay with it for some extended time. I spoke to the bird as if she too had guided me. I hoped I soothed its suffering, in some way. I’m still so curious about how raptors and cars can have these collisions.

Nearly 40 miles we quiet, calm, and isolated. So when we reached the junction of highway #2 in Salisbury, we were rather shocked by the huge crowds, the parking lot, and the live accordian player pushing and pulling out songs from the Maritimes. Passerbyers sang along and bought his CDs. We chatted with another cycling team, and a lively Harley couple about journeys by bike.

We continued now towards Moncton on route 106, passing the chocolately red mud river banks and the distinct strangness of the incoming tidal bore.  We wove through the red brick downtown Moncton towards the trail and paused at beautiful murals of the local bike coop La Bikery.

That’s where Marco met up with us. We had an escort/guide to his home.

I had met Marco and Jocelyne in Oka weeks ago and after contacting us through this blog, they offered to put us up in New Brunswick. Their hospitaility was top notch! We floated in their pool drinking beers and having fabulous chats, about sports, Acadican culture, healthcare, and more. I learned about ringette, an all women’s ice skate game that pre dates women’s hockey in Canada. They served us a delicious salmon dinner in their great outdoor entertaining space, and then quickly cleaned it all up to drive us around to one of their favorite beach spots for sunset: Shediac. The smell of the salt water, the boats, the warf, the hubbub! On route back, they took us to a favorite spot for special dipped ice cream. (think DQ, but without the crunch and in TONS of flavors–I had salted dark chocolate; Irena had salted caramel).

We are so greatful for kindness and connections.



60 miles

world’s largest (model) lobster

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